Change Windows Xp SP2 to Sp3 and Sp2 to Sp1 easily.

1. This can be done very easily with simple steps.
2. Open run and type regedit.
3. go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE and System and to CurrentControlSet and to Control
4. Find windows folder in control and then click on it to see CSD Version which is on the right side.
5. Double click to open it and then Change the data value from 200 XP SP2 to 300 for XP SP3
6. and Change 200 XP SP2 t0 100 for XP SP1.
7. By this way you can change Windows Xp Service packs 1,2,3 to whatever you want.
8. 

Hope you all liked this very big post of Windows Xp Speedup Secrets. Please comment and Share this post.
Thanks to Prince Irongear Who contributed this article to us. Written and Modified by admin

How ANYONE Can Replace Leaking Capacitors

I received a computer to fix from a friend. The symptoms were common with a hardware problem: Turns on every time, but freeze after 15 seconds of use (usually at windows boot-up). I opened the case and took one good look at the motherboard; sure enough, leaking capacitors:

I’ve seen it before, and read up on Abit’s troubles with leaking capacitors but never thought of the simple fix. JUST REPLACE THE CAPACITORS!

Let me get this straight: I’m not an expert in electronics. I don’t have any schooling or experience in repairing motherboards. I’m just an average computer tech student that likes a challenge. So when I was told on a message board and by Abit that only a ‘skilled technician’ with ‘proper equipment’ could replace the leaky capacitors, I took up the challenge!

Abit KT7 with leaking capacitors

“Soldering at midnight? Why Not? Eh?”
So here’s what I did:
I looked around my room for some tools:

• Pliers
• Mini screwdrivers
• Solder (64-015)
• 320 grit Sandpaper
• Pen soldering iron (Way too big for this job!)

As I said, these are just tools I had handy. I’m sure the solder is not the correct type for my motherboard and the soldering gun is brutally large. But what the hell….
Find some good capacitors:
I found a Shuttle AV11 socket 370 board that I labeled as “dead” (I hope it WAS!), so that will be the “organ donor” for my operation. I inspected the AV11′s capacitors – 2700uF 6.3V. The capacitors that I had to replace were 2200uF 6.3V. The capacitors weren’t the same capacitance (?)(the uF part) but since the new ones had higher capacitance AND the same voltage, I assumed all would be OK.

AV11 Motherboard

Start Operating!
I decided to only replace the three worst capacitors on the Abit board. After that, if I didn’t completely kill the motherboard, I might continue with the rest.

DAY 1: The Task

STEP 1: Remove Good Capacitors
The easiest part first.
I labeled 3 good capacitors from the AV11 board that would be removed. Place a bit of heat (or in my case, A LOT of heat from my HUGE soldering iron) to the soldering joints and presto! The capacitors come right out!
Well not really. It’s very hard to heat both pins at the same time to remove the capacitors THAT easily. I ended up heating the capacitors one pin at a time, each time moving the single pin out about a millimeter. Soon enough I had all three out.

STEP 2: Remove the Bad Capacitors
I visually inspected all the leaking capacitors on the Abit board… almost every one was leaking!! I chose the three worst.
Now removal of the three leaky capacitors – this part is a bit harder. Same concept, but I had to make sure that I didn’t apply TOO much heat to ruin the motherboard. A little while longer… but the three worst capacitors are out!
Here you can see the REAL damage from the leaking capacitors:

{mospagebreak}
Paul Baggio aka Hemiboy

STEP 3: Clean Capacitor Area
I wiped down the capacitor areas as best I could. I had to use the mini screwdrivers to scrape the leaking ‘stuff’ off the motherboard. BE SURE to be gentle as to not damage the motherboard.

STEP 4: Clean Pins on New Capacitors
I skipped this step at first. I was having a hell of a time tryng to get the new capacitor pins in the Abit motherboard. I realized that the new capacitors had solder still stuck to the pins, making the installation to their new motherboard quite the hassle.
So, I quickly took each good capacitor and cleaned the pins with sandpaper. This made the pins a bit thinner and much easier to thread into their holes.
STEP 5: Installation of New Capacitors
Wow, What a pain! This is where my cheapo Radio Shack soldering gun should get tossed out the window. What you need to do is heat up the solder from one side as you push the capacitors pins down from the other. Easier said than done.
First thing first. The capacitors HAVE to go in a certain way. You’ll notice that on the motherboard where the capacitors sit, there is a circle with one side shaded. The shaded side matched with the ‘negative’ bars on my capacitors (Just look at the existing capacitors on your motherboard if you’re not sure.) If you put them in reverse, they will explode… or so I hear
Be sure to install them this one pin at a time, much like removing the capacitors. Using all of my patience, I completed the installation of all three good capacitors. I unfortunately was not able to ADD solder to the pins. My solder with my cheapo soldering gun would produce HUGE clumps of solder and ended up covering 2 or 3 pins in the area!
It took me some time to clean it up. Two of the three capacitors are a bit loose without additional solder, but won’t fall out. I thought I’d try it like this first – I can always add solder later if need be.

It’s late and I don’t need any exploding capacitors to wake up my folks, so I’ll try it tomorrow.

DAY 2: The Test

Safety first! I’d recommend some safety glasses, but since mine are not, I’ll just temporarily cover my capacitors with a CD spindle cover. I have no idea what will happen!

I plugged in parts that I can afford to loose in a ‘worst case scenario’ – ATI PCI video card, 128 of SDRAM and my dying 20 GB hard drive. I pull the jumper to turn it on….. Fans start spinning…. And -’Boing’- the screen turns on! Nothing seems out of the ordinary on the motherboard, so I allow it to boot up into XP.
WHOOHOO! It didn’t freeze!

In fact I’m using it right now to finish up my article! I-ROC!
So all in all – a success! About 1 hour of work and a lot of patience has paid off. I now have a WORKING motherboard, for how much longer I don’t know, but for now it works. In the future, I may tackle the remaining leaky capacitors or may reinforce the new ones I installed.
Hope this shows how an AVERAGE tech with AVERAGE tools can accomplish a seemingly difficult task.
Good Luck!

List Of Windows Service And ITs functions

 Let’s see what Windows services might not be absolutely necessary, and which of them you can disable without ruining your computing experience. I recommend that you read everything we share before making any decisions.

• Tablet PC Input Service (in Windows 7) / Touch Keyboard and Handwriting Panel Service (Windows 8): you can safely disable this service, unless you use Tablet PC. Some "Tablet PC Components" like the Snipping tool or Windows Journal will continue to function, while the Tablet PC Input Panel will not. The default startup type is Manual. You can set it even to Disabled without negatively impacting your computing experience;
• Windows Time: if your computer doesn’t have access to the Internet then you don’t need to update the system time from online servers. You can safely disable this service. But if you do, then this service will keep your system time accurate. Safe setting: Manual;
• Secondary logon: if you are the only user of your computer, it can be disabled. But only if you don’t plan to use more than one user account. Safe setting: Manual;
• Fax: unless you use your computer to send or receive faxes using fax resources available on your system (for ex. by using a fax-modem), you can disable it. Safe setting: Manual;
• Print Spooler: if you don’t have a printer attached to your computer and you don’t use virtual printers (e.g.: PDF creator, Microsoft XPS Document Writer, Snagit, etc) you can disable it. Safe setting: Manual;
• Offline Files: unless you use the Offline Files functionality from Windows, you can disable it. Safe setting: Manual;
  NOTE: This service is available only in Windows 7 Professional, Ultimate and Enterprise. In Windows 8 it is available only in the Pro and Enterprise editions.
• Routing and Remote Access Service: This service offers routing services to businesses in local area and wide area networks. It allows computers to dial in to the local computer in order for it to get access to the local network. On a home computer you won’t need such features. Safe setting: Manual;
• Bluetooth Support Service: unless you use Bluetooth devices such as keyboards, mice, printers or phones, you can disable this service. Keep in mind that, if you choose to disable this service, then no Bluetooth devices will be recognized. Also, the already connected Bluetooth devices may fail to work properly. Safe setting: Manual;
• BitLocker Drive Encryption Service: unless you use Microsoft’s Encryption Software (included in Windows 7 Ultimate and Enterprise Edition, and in Windows 8 Pro and Enterprise), you can disable this service. BitLocker Drive Encryption is a feature that allows users to protect data by providing encryption for entire volumes. Safe setting: Manual;
• Encrypting File System:EFS provides file encryption technology for storing encrypted files on NTFS file systems. If you don’t need to encrypt data on your hard drives, it is OK to disable it. Safe setting: Manual;
• Certificate Propagation: if you don’t use SmartCards (sometimes used in large organizations), it is safe to disable this service. Safe setting: Manual;
• Microsoft iSCSI Initiator Service: iSCSI is an abbreviation for Internet Small Computer System Interface - an IP-based storage networking standard for linking data storage facilities. It allows client computers to access data over long distances on remote data centers, by using existing infrastructure (ex. over LAN, Internet). iSCSI devices are disks, tapes, CDs, and other storage devices on another networked computer that you can connect to. Sometimes these storage devices are part of a network called a storage area network (SAN). Unless you need to connect to iSCSI devices, it is safe to disable this service. Safe setting: Manual;
• Netlogon: this service is not needed in a home computer. It maintains a secure channel between the local computer and the domain controller for authenticating users. Unless you are connecting to a network domain, this service will never be used. Safe setting: Manual;
• Parental Controls (in Windows 7) / Family Safety (in Windows 8): unless you have children using your computer and you want to monitor and control their activities, this service is not required. Safe setting: Manual;
• Remote Desktop Configuration: Remote Desktop Protocol is a protocol developed by Microsoft which provides Windows users with a graphical interface to another computer. The client used by Microsoft is called Remote Desktop Connection. If you don’t need to connect remotely to another computer or allow incoming remote connections to yours, then it is safe to disable this service. Safe setting: Manual;
• Remote Desktop Services: same as above. Safe setting: Manual;
• Remote Desktop Services UserMode Port Redirector: same as above. Safe setting: Manual;
• Smart Card: Smart Cards are generally used for safety reasons in large organizations or corporations. The typical home user won’t probably need this service to be running. Safe setting: Manual;
• Smart Card Removal Policy: same as above. Safe setting: Manual;
• Windows Connect Now: this service is used by laptops and other mobile computers to connect to Wireless Networks. If you are on a desktop computer, you can disable this service. Safe setting: Manual;
• Windows Firewall: This service should be disabled only if you are using a third-party security solution that provides firewall protection. Safe setting: Manual;
• Windows Error Reporting Service: this service is used to report system errors to Microsoft. Although disabling this service won’t affect your Windows computer, letting it run when needed may help you solve problems and issues that occur on your system, by searching solutions available from Microsoft. Safe setting: Manual;
• Remote Registry: this service enables remote users to modify the Windows Registry. Some say that having this service turned on can pose security issues, and therefore, choose to disable it. In Windows Vista and Windows 7, this service is set to a manual start by default, while in Windows 8 it is disabled. After disabling it, I encountered some problems while updating my system, so I really think that it is safe to leave it set to Manual, at least in Windows 7. Safe setting: Manual;
• Windows Defender: if you use a third-party security solution (antivirus and antispyware), then disabling this service is a safe choice. You should also check this tutorial: Windows Defender - How to Turn it On or Off. Safe setting: Manual.

Conclusion

If you read the list above, you notice that we always mention the safest setting to be a Manual startup type. As I mentioned before, Manual startups provide a good balance. Manual services start only if they are used by your system and you won’t encounter problems. Disabling services should be done with care, only after documenting yourself and experimenting, to make sure your system is not negatively impacted.
However, there are some services that are safe to disable, depending on how you use your computer. If you don’t use certain features and you are sure you won’t use them in the future, go ahead and disable those services that you won’t need.

No Display With Long Beep Problem

Some times we will face No display problems. At the same time Computer generates some Beeps. If you have basic idea on computers, This type of Problems are very easy to solve.

Generally sounds or beeps are come from Motherboard speaker. The speaker generates some beeps to show the motherboard error. so the long beep also one the error. Long beep error means that Problem with RAM. so check your RAM, is it connected with loose contact or not working.

To check the RAM, Open the left side door of the CPU, find the RAM and unlock the RAM slots, then remove the RAM. Clean the RAM and Reinsert the RAM for 2 to 3 times to RAM Slot for 2 to 3 times and start the computer. otherwise change the RAM and start the computer.

Why My Computer Is Running Very Slow

My computer is very slow. How to increase my computer speed. Sometimes office systems and our own laptops irritate us with their slow running in emergency time. Here is the quick speedup guide for slow computer users.

For instant speedup, there are two tasks you have to do. Close all the running services and delete all temporary files. Both are very important and easy for quick speedup.

To close the current services, go to task manager (right click on taskbar and click task manager), select processes tab and right click on current user unwanted services and click on end process button. Except explorer.exe, you can close all the current user services. When you click end process button you get conformation windows, just click yes. After you close all the services except explorer, system speed will better than before.
Second is delete temporary file. Go to start menu, open run and command as recent and delete all recent files, at the same way enter commands temp, prefetch, %temp% and delete all temp, prefetch, %temp% files.

These two tasks are enough to speedup you system or laptop quickly

 What Causes Computer Systems to Heat Up

While most components in your computer system generate heat, some components cause more heat than others.
For example, your Central Processing Unit (CPU) which is most in use even during normal operations is one of the main components that needs proper cooling to stay functional. Your Graphics Card (Graphics Processing Unit, GPU,) also needs special cooling, usually already built into the card itself. This is especially true for gamers, where the GPU is under a heavier load than it would normally be.

Another component that can generate large amounts of heat is the computers’ Random Access Memory (RAM). While generally this is not as much of an issue, some newer and faster RAM modules will come with a pre-assembled heat sink to help offset the extra heat that is caused by the faster speeds.
With all of these components each causing heat, they also heat each other up. A CPU’s heat might further raise the graphics card’s heat and vice versa. Heat is then dissipated through cooling mediums, including the case itself, airflow, heat sinks, etc.

Above: Dusty Heat Sink

Heat can also be caused by poor airflow. If airflow is obstructed by excess dust, hot air cannot be vented out of the system, and builds up inside, as shown in the image above. Obstructed airflow can also be caused by improper orientation of fans and components being in the way.
Aside from poor airflow, improper application of thermal compounds can cause heat sinks to lose efficiency and cause more heat within the system.

So How Do You Keep Heat Under Control?

There are many ways to keep different components from overheating. I’ll go over each of the most common cooling methods used in today’s consumer computer systems — heat sinks, fans, and thermal compounds — as well as some less common cooling methods that are not yet fully mainstream, but still an important part of high-end computer systems (liquid cooling).

Heat Sinks

One of the most common cooling components is the heat sink. Heat sinks can be found on most computer components including the CPU, Graphics Cards, RAM, and other integrated circuits.
There are two types of heat sinks: passive heat sinks and active heat sinks.

Above: CPU and chipset heat sinks

Passive heat sinks are essentially just pieces of aluminum, or more recently, copper, affixed using thermal compounds onto a computer chip that normally produces heat. Heat is then transferred through the conductive thermal compound into the metal, and is redistributed away from the chip itself. While this method works well for older CPUs and chips, newer and faster ones will require a more powerful cooling solution, such as an active heat sink.
Active heat sinks are similar to passive ones, except they have a fan attached. The fan helps to pull heat away from the heat sink allowing it to cool more effectively. You will usually see active heat sinks in graphics cards, and even larger active heat sinks in CPUs. Active heat sinks do require more care, as with the addition of a fan, dust is more susceptible to enter the heat sink and will require cleanings and care more often.

Fans

Fans, more specifically, case fans, help to cool your computer case by (usually) pulling cold air in through the front of the PC case, and blowing it out of the back.
This is not always the case though, as each PC builder has their own cooling preferences, and others may actually add in case fans causing their heating methods to be counterproductive. An example of a counterproductive fan setup would be all fans pulling air in. This can cause an excess of dust, as well as no way for heat to escape.

Above: Case fan with blue LEDs

Aside from case fans, there are also other types of fans available.
PCI slot fans, or blowers, are one way to increase the flow of air out of the back of the PC case. Hard drive (HDD) fan modules are usually made up of two small fans attached to the exposed side of an internal hard drive; this helps to pull heat away from faster or more active hard drives. Most internal power supply unites (PSUs) will have an internal fan pulling air in and another blowing air outside of the computer case. Fans can also be found as part of active heat sinks in CPUs, graphics cards, and chipsets.
The most common fan size ranges between 40mm and 140mm; though fans as large as 240mm are starting to emerge in the mass market and in specialty cases.

Water Cooling

Water cooling is generally only used in high-end systems and gaming systems.
Water dissipates heat more efficiently than heat sinks and fans. Water cooling systems consist of a pump that pumps water across multiple components within the system. Most often, water cooling systems work to actively cool the CPU and graphics card, but modular systems allow the connection to other components within the PC. Water cooling can also be much quieter than using more conventional cooling methods like fans.

Above: Liquid cooling

While there are many upsides to using water cooling, there are also a few major downsides.
Not only are water cooling systems much more complex, but they are also a more dangerous build if not done properly. Even a small leak can turn disastrous. If a leak is present, the coolant can damage internal components including the motherboard itself.

See Command Prompt History

You can see last used commands in a session using the navigation buttons, but if you would like to see a list of all the commands, you can get it by pressing the F7 button.

Alternatively, you can use the command doskey /history  to list these commands in the command prompt itself.